The Movable Buffet: Dispatches from Las Vegas by Richard Abowitz

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A night at the Tropicana

09:36 PM PT, Dec 6 2007

Tropicanasign I have been hearing for months about problems at the Tropicana.

The property was finally purchased in January by Columbia Sussex after a brutal bidding war. At the time there was talk by the new owners of putting  $2 billion into a makeover of the property. If so, they seem to be taking their time. When I was there Tuesday I saw none of the telltale signs of renovation within my walks of the resort. Of course, they could be renovating the rooms. 

I was at the Tropicana to see what it was like to be a customer there. The property has been getting a great deal of local attention because of staff reductions and  stalled negotiations with the Culinary Union (which claims to have had its Trop membership reduced from 1,000 to 750 workers over the year).

Back in April, the Tropicana celebrated its 50th anniversary. That is an extraordinary amount of time for a property on the Strip to exist. I was invited to a celebration for the event, but I wound up not going. That  incident (documented below) was when I had my first inkling that something might be going very wrong at the Tropicana.

I wanted to write a story on the property's history of five decades in Vegas to go with the celebration. Foolishly, I put in a routine request to the Tropicana for help locating long-term employees who had been there since the property opened to interview for the story.

Resorts are usually very helpful on simple requests like that. But the Tropicana responded to me like I was a spy planning an undercover mission.

Remember, I was working press invited by them to the party to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Tropicana and I was planning a story on the event. Duh. But
as the date of the anniversary approached, my e-mail request initiated a string of the oddest exchanges I've ever had with a Strip resort.
 
Even the publicist for the property seemed surprised at what she was having to tell me based, she noted, on the wishes of her corporate bosses. The beleaguered Tropicana publicist kept passing on escalating demands from Columbia Sussex.

Finally, on March 30, came the deal breaker: an e-mail in which she informed me that the latest rules included having an executive vice president of marketing for Columbia Sussex present for any interviews I do with Tropicana employees on their property. Even more surprising, that the same Columbia Sussex executive VP would "have some say in what winds up in print" in the Los Angeles Times.

What an extraordinary demand to make; I've never had another like it covering Vegas. And it set off all sorts of alarm bells with me as to what it was that Columbia Sussex was so worried that their employees might tell me?

Obviously, I did not agree to the demands of the publicist. A short time later, I discovered that the publicist was no longer working at the Tropicana.
 
Anyway, as we reach end of 2007, the Tropicana is now the only resort left on the Strip that has not settled on a new contract with the local Culinary Union. The next negotiation is not even scheduled until Jan. 10. I have also received a lot of anecdotal stories from people that morale and conditions at the Tropicana right now could ruin an otherwise good vacation.
 
So, I decided to spend the night at the Tropicana to find out how bad it was to be a guest there. Of course, one night is only one night. But, while you would never confuse the service or upkeep with Wynn, my night at the Tropicana was no better or worse than a night I spent at the Sahara or another night I spent at the Stardust about a year ago.

They were all the same, with the exception of a certain intangible quality, a vibrancy that comes from being on the Strip.

The Tropicana felt more like a warehouse with gambling.
Here are some of the details: I called the front desk from my home before booking and was told I could get Wi-Fi access from my room. Armed with this information, I booked a room online and headed over to the Tropicana with my computer.

The first problem I encountered is that the cheap room I bought did not have the option for Wi-Fi service. I had not been told that Wi-Fi was only available in more expensive rooms. So, at check-in, I was upgraded for free to a room in the Tropicana's most recent tower (built in the '80s).

That was my experience whenever something went wrong. The Tropicana would fix it after I complained. Of course, some tourists might not want to spend their vacation time navigating this system of complaints in exchange for freebies.
 
On the bright side: for both checking in and checking out, and for everything else, there was no line. This is one empty property to get around, and it is also huge. (That could be a bonus to a convention-goer who does not want to make it through the throngs of tourists who slow you down at other properties.) But empty doesn't feel right for a place situated on the storied Las Vegas Strip.
 
Let's finish the Wi-Fi story. To purchase Wi-Fi in my hotel room, I spent about 20 minutes entering and re-entering information (including my credit card numbers) but the screen kept timing out. Finally, I called the front desk for help and spent another 10 minutes waiting on hold. I hung up. I called back again and was on hold again before finally reaching a technician to help me. He told me that my problem was common and he had an easy solution. The result: He activated my Wi-Fi for free.
 
Bodiesattropicana The most popular attraction in the Tropicana now is the "Bodies" exhibit. This is the controversial exhibit that uses polymer preservation to allow real human bodies and organs to be presented as exhibits.

It is educational and endlessly fascinating and totally not the sort of permanent exhibition I would expect to see in Vegas. "Bodies" alone made the trip to the Tropicana worthwhile. Exhibits like "Bodies" make me realize how unpredictable the Vegas market can be.

Certainly, the comment book reflects a more serious frame of mind than most tourists bring to Vegas attractions.
 
According to marketing director for "Bodies," Victoria Ribeiro, the exhibit attracts an average of 1,000 visitors on a weekday, with more on weekends. Those are great numbers for something placed so deep in the bowels of the Tropicana, and suggests to me that many customers are coming to the property just for the exhibit.
 
But the popularity of "Bodies" is not necessarily good news for the Tropicana. I have been hearing strong rumors for a while that next year "Bodies" is planning to relocate to new digs at the far hipper Luxor.

This would allow the exhibit to capitalize better on its popularity and help the Luxor in its move to make that property into a destination casino. Riberio refused to comment on whether the exhibit plans such a move to the Luxor or anywhere else in its future. But it must be frustrating for any exhibit to be at the bottom of an escalator that no one seems to recall the last time it worked.
 
In fact, "Bodies" is a well-maintained oasis in a neglected casino of worn-down carpet, inexplicably taped-off areas and even closed bars. In truth none of this is unusual for an older property.

But there was one men's bathroom, off the casino floor, that did reach some sort of uncleanliness level beyond the ordinary. It is worth mentioning that it included overflowing urinals, no soap in the dispenser, an empty box for hand wipes and other details that I will spare you. That bathroom was more the sort of thing I've seen in fast-food joints on road trips, not at a Strip resort.

I was originally going to eat at the buffet since my check-in included a $2-off coupon and, as always, there was no line. But I asked a Tropicana employee for an opinion on the buffet and was told: "Don't eat there. The food is as bad as the employee cafeteria."

So instead I went to one of the Tropicana's more high-end restaurants: Legends Steak and Seafood. I am not a food critic. But my chicken Parmesan tasted like someone had emptied a shaker of pepper on the meat.
 
Still, in the end, things at the Tropicana were not really a horror story at all. 

The worst part about my room was getting there. Each time I had to walk past a gauntlet of aggressive kiosk salespeople to reach the elevator. Also, only a few of the elevators to my tower seemed to be working.

But my room was clean. The service was friendly, and the staff does not seem to be taking out its morale problems, if they exist, on the customers. The room was spacious and clean with a nice view of airplanes landing.
 
In fact, if you are on a tight budget, I might even recommend the Tropicana as a cheap place to go if you just need a hotel room to throw your body.

On the other hand, even staying at the Stardust a year ago after its closure had been announced, I had a much stronger sense of being at a vibrant property on the Las Vegas Strip.

The Tropicana was a barely acceptable hotel room for a nice price. It strikes me that what the Tropicana really lacked was that intangible feeling of the Las Vegas Strip: that there is excitement in the air.

Instead, the air at the Tropicana was literally and figuratively stale.

(photos June, 2006 by Sarah Gerke)
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